Guernsey and nearby Herm island are untouched by the major fast food and coffee shop chains, and amusement parks and arcades. Instead visitors are free to concentrate on the simple things in life like beaches, rock pools, coastal walks and relaxed cafés, writes Clare Smith.

Take a stroll along 28 miles of dramatic cliff top paths and spot some bird life. Take a dip in the clear waters at one of 27 secluded sandy beaches. Hire a canoe and go on an adventure. Stop for a fresh seafood lunch at a harbour café and try ormers, a local seafood delicacy. Join an invigorating evening speedboat trip around the coast.

Whether you spend the duration of your stay on Guernsey itself, or create a multi centre holiday and island hop by ferry, a trip to these parts can be moulded to suit every whim and interest.

Nestled in the English Channel lying closer to the coast of France than England is the Bailiwick of Guernsey, a collection of islands that is not technically part of the UK (nor the EU), but a separate possession of the Crown. The relative closeness of Guernsey to the south coast has long made it a popular tourist destination for the British. Only a 45-minute flight from Gatwick, Guernsey makes an interesting alternative destination for those used to holidaying in Devon or Cornwall.

From the principal town of St Peter Port on Guernsey, several smaller islands can be reached by small ferry within three quarters of an hour.

There is much to delight in this area, especially if you have a genuine desire to leave behind the modern world for a week or two. Surrounded by the changeable waters of the Channel, glorious beaches and ragged cliffs, these beautiful islands are located just a hop skip and jump from our own shores.

GUERNSEY:
The most appealing aspect of Guernsey is the adherence to traditional island lifestyle and local values, staunchly upheld by the residents. It strives to maintain a strong identity by prohibiting the introduction of fast food restaurants and coffee chains. The emphasis instead is on local produce and individually owned businesses. Similar ethics inform all other parts of island life. The maximum speed limit anywhere on the island is 35mph. Locals buy all their fruit and veg from “hedge veg” boxes that overzealous growers leave by the sides of the road and which operate on an honesty box basis. A yellow “H” sign plastered on the front of your hire car ensures a smooth driving experience, locals will almost always give way to you. This unusual climate of courtesy and politeness is rare among destinations so popular with tourists and it makes for a calm experience.

To consider the island a retreat exclusively for mature or family travellers is to underestimate its appeal. Guernsey has established itself as a financial centre of excellence, and to cater for the influx of bankers from The City, there's a plethora of pubs, bars, boutiques and restaurants, with the harbour front in St Peter Port particularly known for its variety of establishments.

There is also plenty to occupy any outdoorsy types. Camping is popular across the island as are water sports. Vazon Bay, half way along the top coast and with wide sweeping sands, is a popular surfing spot.

The Little Chapel in the St Andrews district is curious and worth a visit. Said to be the smallest chapel in the world, and built in the vein of the famous Basilica at Lourdes, it is decorated with pieces of broken Wedgwood china and sea shells. It is quite beautiful, providing you can avoid the other coach load of tourists who make the obligatory 20 minute stop.

The lavishly decorated Hauteville House in St Peter Port was the home of French exile Victor Hugo author of, among other things, The Hunchback of Notre Dame and Les Miserables. The most striking room of the house is in the roof, boasting incredible views out to sea. It is here that Hugo wrote the majority of Les Miserables. Tours of this exquisite literary home, filled with artistic and antiquarian curiosities, take place in both English and French several times a day. You must knock on the front door and leave your name to sign up.

For more culture, a trip to Sausmarez Manor is a must. The house, one of the oldest on the island, dates back in part to the early 13th century. The Sausmarez family, whose incredible lineage you can learn of during the house tour, still lives here. There is a regular farmers market in the shade of the house that draws locals and tourists alike. There is also an impressive sculpture park in the subtropical gardens. A trip to Sausmarez will fill half a day.

The Channel Islands was the only British territory to be occupied by the Germans during WWII. For those interested in history there is an occupation museum, underground hospital and many old strongholds to explore.

GUERNSEY USEFUL LINKS:
Guernsey Surf School (Vazon Bay): 01481 244855, www.guernseysurfschool.co.uk
La Bailloterie Camping: 01481 243636, www.campinginguernsey.com
The Little Chapel: www.thelittlechapel.org
Hauteville House: www.victorhugo.gg
Sausmarez Manor: 01481 235571, www.sausmarezmanor.co.uk
Les Rocquettes Hotel: £70 pppn for deluxe room with B&B (June to Sept). 01481 722146, www.lesrocquettesguernsey.com
Victor Hugo International Music Festival, Guernsey (September 19-28): www.vhfestival.com
Island RIB Voyages (Guernsey): “Herm and the Humps Speedboat Voyage”, £27.50 per adult, £19 per child at peak times. 01481 713031, www.islandribvoyages.com
Guernsey’s Autumn Walking Week: September 20-28, 2008. Walks cost £4pp, or free if you partake in four walks or more. www.visitguernsey.com

HERM:
The closest of the bailiwick's other main islands to Guernsey (the others being Sark and Alderney), Herm can offer an even more extreme island experience than Guernsey itself. Without cars, street lamps or televisions, this island particularly draws those who are curious to experience a more remote break than Guernsey can offer.

Lacking modern technological conveniences, and with all but one motorised vehicle on the island, Herm specialises in splendid isolation. The two pubs and only hotel are within five minutes' walking distance of the pier from where the Trident ferry moors and drops its daily quota of tourists and work staff from Guernsey.

To walk around the entire island wouldn’t take more than an hour and a half, but you may feel tempted at the sighting of a deserted beach to take a diversion and enjoy the kind of solitude that is difficult to find these days.

There are approximately 60 full time residents, and the island school has only eight pupils. The current owners of Herm, Adrian and Pennie Heyworth, who have lived and worked there for 28 years, now wish to sell the island's lease. To become the new leaseholder would ensure a lifetime of island living.

For those of us without a spare few million, a holiday to the Bailiwick of Guernsey will have to do. The trouble will be to engage again with the real world once you leave the tranquility of these shores.

HERM INFORMATION:
The White House Hotel - cottage room with ensuite: £92 pppn in high season. Luxury harbour cottage: £112 pppn in high season. 01481 722159, www.herm-island.com

GETTING THERE AND AROUND:
Aurigny Air Services (01481 237426, www.aurigny.com) flies to Guernsey from Gatwick and Stansted, with return fares from around £60.
Travel Trident (01481 721379, www.herm-island.com) has several sailings per day between Guernsey and Herm. Return fares are £9 (adults), £4.50 (children).
Island Taxis: 01481 700500. Hertz Car Rental: 0800 735 1014, www.hertzci.com/location/Guernsey

TOURIST INFORMATION:
Guernsey Tourist Board: 01481 723552, www.visitguernsey.com